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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.